Ssaamjang is a salty, spicy condiment used with foods that are wrapped for eating. With a base of doenjang (fermented soybean paste) and gochujang (fermented chili paste), ssamjang is off the charts with umami. Hooni Kim’s recipe from “My Korea” includes finely chopped toasted walnuts and toasted sesame seeds, both of which add pleasing texture to the sauce. Doenjang may require a trip to the Asian market, but in a pinch, white miso is a reasonably good stand-in.