In “Tasting Rome,” co-authors Katie Parla and Kristina Gill write about pizza made using an innovative method perfected by Gabriele Bonci of Pizzarium in Rome. Called pizza al contrario, it’s pizza turned on its head. The “toppings” are put into a pan, covered with dough and baked. Once out of the oven, the pie is inverted, revealing ingredients that have melded with the dough, and the browned crust that formed on top during baking becomes a wonderfully crisp bottom, no pizza stone required. To keep this recipe for pizza al contrario simple enough for a weeknight, we use store-bought refrigerated pizza dough.