Often, people are asking about my home state, New Hampshire. For that, I have a snarky response: New York. And yes, as somebody who has lived here many years, I’m allowed to make fun of New Hampshire’s abysmal restaurant selection.
But when the conversation turns to other countries, I’ve got plenty to say. So in the spirit of prepping for summer travel season, I thought I’d share some of my favorite restaurants and bars. This week, we’ll cover Western Europe. Stay tuned for other parts of the world.
London
Also check out Delamina East, another great spot for Middle Eastern fare. That’s where I learned our recipe for Green Shakshuka, which is packed with leeks, peas, spinach and feta cheese. But as you can see from this photo of the spread I devoured that day, pretty much anything on the menu looks delicious.
Rome
Pretty sure I don’t need to sell you on the allure of Rome as a destination for great food. That said, the city is overrun by tourist traps, so finding great food actually is more challenging than you’d expect. Avoid the various places claiming to prepare the original Fettuccine Alfredo. They are legit, but you can do better making our recipe for it.
Instead, head north of the city to Mamma Angelina. Don’t order off the menu. Call ahead and ask Andrea Dell’Omo, the chef/owner, to prepare the two dishes he taught me. First is Pasta alla Papalina, a lighter, brighter riff on classic carbonara that uses Parmesan and prosciutto in place of the more common guanciale and pecorino Romano. Also have him make you his take on Rigatoni alla Zozzona, a mashup of cheesy, porky, egg-rich carbonara and spicy, tomatoey Amatriciana.
Then head to the southern side of the city and eat at Felice a Testaccio. It’s a family owned restaurant that opened in 1936 and is known for serving up traditional fare, including tonnarelli cacio e pepe. But your best bet is the Spaghetti alla Felice—piping-hot, just-drained pasta tossed with grape tomatoes, olive oil, a ton of fresh herbs and ricotta cheese.
As for a bar in Rome, there really is only one choice — Bar Kong, regularly ranked one of the best in the world. Be sure to sit at the bar. And let the bartenders guide you. Tell them what you typically drink, then let them lead the way.
Naples
Avoid the usual pizza places (I wasn’t impressed). Instead, head for La Tavernetta Vittozzi, a family-run spot where five sisters—Rosa, Anna, Veronica, Enza and Elena—their parents and grandparents make amazing Neapolitan Meatballs, Italian Wedding Soup and Eggplant Parmesan. Over the years, they’re been kind enough to teach me all of them.
Another must-visit family-run spot is Enoteca e Trattoria La Cantinetta. It’s a convenience store/enoteca/restaurant where little has changed since Maria Notaro took over more than 60 years ago. Her son runs the front of the shop, where wine spigots by the cash register get a regular workout from elderly neighborhood men who pop in with their own glasses. Get the Zuppa Forte, it’s an old-school Neapolitan dish made by slow-cooking meat with garlic and onions, along with tomatoes and preserved chilies, until reduced and concentrated.
Paris
The city’s flea markets are epic, particularly Marché aux Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen. After you hunt for deals, head to Comestibles et Marchand de Vins. It’s the sort of Parisian sidewalk wine bar/cafe you’d think only exists in movies. Let them suggest a bottle, order some (more) meats and cheeses, then just soak everything in. Last time I was there, it started raining. I didn’t care. My table was under an umbrella and it was painfully charming.
Copenhagen
My favorite wine bar is Ved Stranden 10. The vibe is like splitting a bottle in your friend’s living room. For a taste of new Nordic cooking without going to the crazy extremes (and cost) of Noma, check out Barr, right on the waterfront. Just be smarter than me and go when it’s NOT winter...
Athens
Such a cool city to explore. Start the day at Stani, one of the city’s few remaining dairy bars. The specialty is a block of Greek-style yogurt topped with honey and nuts. You never knew yogurt could be this good.
For an old school meze, head to Kapetan Michalis. You’ll likely be the youngest person there. It’s the haunt of old guys playing cards, sipping raki and munching on numerous small plates of fried sardines, saganaki cheese and the most incredible spicy feta cheese dip called Tirokafteri. If you’re eating on the run (or late at night), check out Souvlaki o Kostas, where you must get the pork souvlaki.
That should get you started. I’ll tackle another part of the world next time. But lest you think I’m totally down on dining in northern New England, I do love Portland, Maine’s food scene. Eventide Oyster Co. always is amazing, even if it becomes overrun with tourists in summer. And for a dose of great diner grub, it’s hard to beat Becky's Diner down by the water.
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