Our update to tuna noodle casserole incorporates a few fresh, grown-up changes, transforming the dish into a fantastic meal-in-one with lots of pleasing textural contrast. Anise-y fennel and soft, sweet sautéed onions build a flavor foundation, with white wine for hits of bright acidity. The mixture is combined with cream, plus earthy thyme and briny capers before being tossed with shell pasta and nutty Gruyère cheese. An herbed crouton topping, made extra-crisp by a quick bake, brings crunch to each bite. Either olive oil- or water-packed tuna works here; we prefer the former, as its flavor and texture are richer.