Let’s give cauliflower a three-cup makeover. Three-cup chicken is a Taiwanese classic, named for the formula once used to prepare the dish: 1 cup each of sesame oil, soy sauce and rice wine. We use cauliflower for a vegetarian version. The recipe works well in either a 12- to 14-inch wok or 12-inch skillet, but we prefer a wok. Its tall walls make it easy to toss and stir. Don’t cut the cauliflower into florets larger than 1 inch. Larger florets may not cook through. Serve as a side or with steamed rice for a complete meal.