This hearty stew of sweet potatoes and quinoa was inspired by the Peruvian dish called quinua atamalada. Use quinoa of any color, and be sure to cook it to a creamy, risotto-like consistency; it should not be dry and fluffy. While true atamalada uses Peruvian chilies, this recipe incorporates Mexican canned chipotle chilies in adobo sauce, which we always keep on hand because they’re a terrific way to add chili heat along with smoky flavor and a touch of tanginess. Peruvian salsa criolla, a simple relish of lime-steeped sliced onion and chopped cilantro, is a perfect embellishment that brings sharp, fresh flavor and crisp texture to the stew; if you wish to try it, see the recipe below.