In Sri Lanka, we learned to make nivithi dal, a rustic, rich dish of coconut-simmered red lentils and spinach. Our rendition combines the spinach-heavy version prepared at restaurant Lunu Mirisa in Boralesgamuwa and the tarka-embellished dal by Colombo home cook Mohara Dole. Be sure to use mature bunch spinach, not baby spinach sold in bags or containers, which is too tender. The optional curry leaves have the flavor and aroma of toasted garlic, citrus and spices. They’re sold in South Asian markets, but if not available, simply omit them. Serve with lime wedges, basmati rice and/or warm naan.