Bulgur, made by cracking, cooking then drying whole-grain wheat, stars in this Middle Eastern-style pilaf. To bring out the grains’ nutty taste, we first toast them in a dry pan. Then we brown tomato paste with onion, which boosts the umami and sweetness and builds layers of flavor. This is especially delicious topped with Greek yogurt seasoned with grated garlic, chopped fresh mint or parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice. Be sure to use coarse bulgur here, rather than finely ground; the hearty texture of coarse bulgur holds up well when cooked for a pilaf.