In Rome, we learned to make pasta alla papalina—a lighter, brighter riff on classic carbonara. The dish has been popular since the 1920s, when, as the story goes, Cardinal Pacelli, who later became Pope Pius XII, asked chef Cesertto Simmi to create a more elegant take on the Italian staple. Simmi swapped the traditional pairing of guanciale and pecorino Romano for prosciutto and Parmesan: a slightly less robust yet equally delicious combination. Our version was inspired by chef Andrea Dell’Omo of restaurant Mamma Angelina, who prepared for us a breathtakingly good rendition. We’ve incorporated frozen peas as well, which have become a common addition; they add freshness as well as attractive pops of green.