Kitchari, a traditional Indian dish of spiced rice and lentils, is the ancestor of kedgeree, an Anglo-Indian dish of curry-seasoned rice with smoked fish. Smoked haddock is the fish of choice in the U.K., but we use smoked trout as it is much easier to source and can be used straight from the package (smoked haddock requires poaching before use). As with all types of fried rice, for a fluffy finished texture that’s not gummy, it’s important to use rice that has been cooked in advance and well chilled. Fragrant, nutty basmati is best but any long-grain white rice will do. (If you wish to cook just enough rice specifically for this recipe, rinse and drain 1½ cups basmati or regular long-grain white rice, then add to a large saucepan along with 2¼ cups water and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high, then cover, reduce to low and cook until the water has been absorbed, about 15 minutes. Let stand, covered and off heat, for 10 minutes, then transfer to a kitchen parchment–lined baking sheet or a wide, shallow bowl. Cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours.) Serve the kedgeree with lemon wedges and mango chutney.