In Bologna, home cook Paola Tassi made us her version of erbazzone. The savory tart, a speciality of the Emilia-Romagna region, typically features a filling of wild greens and pancetta in a pork fat-enriched crust. In the filling, we tested everything from spinach to broccoli rabe, but preferred a duo of Swiss chard and lacinato kale for their combination of textures and flavor. Beet greens work well in place of chard—just be sure to cook the mixture a few minutes extra to ensure the sturdier beet greens are fully tender. As for the crust—we opted for butter over pork fat, but to mimic the savoriness of lard, we add a little grated Parmesan cheese to the dough. We also experimented with shaping methods, including a double-crusted tart formed in a pie plate and a more svelte version in a French-style fluted pan. Our favorite was a rustic, freeform, crostata-like iteration. This gave each slice an ideal crust to filling ratio. More importantly, its open top allowed steam from the greens to evaporate in the oven, creating an evenly browned tart with no soggy bottom.