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Pecorino “Meatballs” in Tomato Sauce
At Checchino dal 1887, a restaurant in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood, we were introduced to pallotte cacio e ova, or cheese and egg balls. The dish exemplifies the cooking of cucina povera, which takes simple, local ingredients and transforms them into hearty, comforting sustenance. A generous amount of pecorino Romano, plus eggs, breadcrumbs and a few aromatics are combined to form a dough-like mixture. We also add some nutty Parmesan to balance pecorino’s funkiness. Formed into spheres and fried in olive oil, the meat-free “meatballs” are toothsome and umami-rich from the cheeses, but also boast a fritter-like crispness and browning on their exteriors. After frying, the “meatballs” are finished in a quick-simmered four-ingredient (not counting the salt and pepper) tomato sauce that balances their savoriness. For minimal knife work, we use a food processor to first make the breadcrumbs, then to blitz together the cheese, garlic and basil. Pallotte cacio e ova makes a fine first course, or a satisfying dinner that happens to be vegetarian.
4-6
Servings
Don’t use pre-grated cheeses for this recipe, as they are too dry and dusty. Pecorino and Parmesan, each purchased in a chunk, are essential not only for best flavor but also for achieving the right texture and degree of moistness in the “meatball” mixture. When selecting pieces, make sure to take the rind into account, as it will need to be trimmed before use.
50 minutes
For the sauce:
-
1
tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Directions
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01To make the sauce, in a large saucepan over medium-high, combine the oil and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the garlic is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes with juices, basil sprigs, 1 cup water and ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer, then reduce to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.