In Naples, we learned to make an anchovy-free iteration of pasta puttanesca that leans on generous amounts of olives and capers for savoriness against the backdrop of sweet-tart tomatoes. We’ve added canned tuna, which gives the dish a satisfying meatiness. Spaghetti typically is the pasta of choice, but for this substantial sauce, fettuccine also is great. If you prefer short shapes, we like the way campanelle or orecchiette trap the flavorful bits.