This citrusy cake with a soft, sueded crumb is an adaptation of a recipe from “Cheryl Day’s Treasury of Southern Baking” by Cheryl Day, co-owner of Back in the Day Bakery in Savannah, Georgia. Cake flour helps keep the crumb tender and fine, while a trio of citrus zests lend bright, sunny flavor to both the cake and glaze. Day says you can use any combination of citrus, from Meyer lemons to mandarin oranges. In the cake, be sure to use almond paste, not marzipan, which is much finer in texture and sweeter. Of the brands most widely available in supermarkets, we found Solo almond paste to work best. Also be sure the almond paste is fresh; it should be soft and malleable and should feel moist to the touch. If it’s firm and dry, it won’t break down properly during mixing. Store leftovers in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three days.