This recipe uses the gentle, controlled heat of the oven to replicate the “reverse sear” technique Argentinians use when grilling beef. Rather than start the steak over high heat to brown, then finish over low heat, the steaks start in a cool oven, then finish with a quick sear in either a blistering-hot cast-iron skillet or on a grill. The result is steak with a deep, flavorful crust that's evenly cooked throughout, not overdone at the surface and just-right at only the core. Either strip steaks (also called strip loin or New York strip) or bone-in or boneless ribeyes work, as long as they're 1½ to 2 inches thick. We learned to season cuts of beef with nutmeg at La Cabrera in Buenos Aires; the spice doesn't leave a distinct flavor of its own but enhances the steaks' meatiness and smoky notes.