Basic chilaquiles consists of thick, crisp tortilla chips coated with a green or red salsa, and garnished with crumbly Mexican cheese, chopped onion and crema. Chilaquiles parranderos is a deluxe version—parrandero translates as “partygoer”—with more embellishments, including meats, piled on at the finish. At Nicos restaurant in Mexico City, chef Gerardo Vázquez Lugo prepared for us his version of chilaquiles parranderos. He included both shredded chicken and chorizo. For our iteration, we opted for only the latter, but we also added avocado for creaminess and color. Supermarket tortilla chips lack the substance needed for good chilaquiles, as they quicky turn soggy. We recommend frying your own, but if that’s too daunting, we also offer instructions for oven-baked tortilla chips. They aren’t quite as crisp as deep-fried, but are much better than store-bought. Serve with lime wedges.