The trouble with most mashed potatoes? They taste more of milk or cream than potatoes. And they often end up gluey. So this recipe skips the liquid dairy and instead simmers russets in a minimal amount of water that is cooked off, not drained. This ensures all the potato flavor stays in the pot. We also cook the potatoes in a generous amount of butter—18 tablespoons! As the fat melts, it coats the potatoes’ starch molecules and prevents them from becoming gluey. We tested numerous potato varieties, but russets were our favorite. They do require a rinse before cooking to wash away excess starch, but they yield fluffy mashed potatoes that taste distinctly of, well, potatoes. And butter. This recipe gives instructions for serving the potatoes right away, as well as for making them in advance. Either way, the texture is best when the spuds are hot, so we recommend warming the serving bowl before filling it.