This spice rub takes inspiration from espetada, beef skewers from Madeira that are redolent of bay and garlic. And the bay doesn’t just put in its usual cameo appearance; it’s ground into the mix to add earthy flavor. We add subtle heat with dried red chili and some sharpness and pungency with black pepper, while brown sugar keeps the savoriness in check. This bold rub is a great match for beef or lamb, as well as a fat-rich cut of pork, such as shoulder. The recipe makes enough to season about 1½ pounds of meat.