At Panificio Bonci, a renowned bakery in Rome, we encountered pomodori ripieni di riso, a regional classic of rice-stuffed tomatoes baked with potato wedges tucked between the fruits. The duo of carbs makes the dish hearty and satisfying, but the tomato and herb flavors provide lightness with their bright, summery notes. For an especially flavorful filling, after scooping the insides out of the tomatoes, we process the innards then strain the puree so we can use the lump-free tomato liquid to cook the rice. But the trick to this dish is getting the starchy, highly absorbent Arborio rice to properly cook in the hollowed-out tomatoes. We needed to use a combination of tomato juices and water as the liquid, and for an evenly tender texture without any mushiness, the grains required a soak in the liquid prior to cooking. The timing is rather persnickety: 30 minutes was sometimes too brief, resulting in underdone rice, and 1 hour too long, resulting in a soft, mushy texture. Forty-five minutes is ideal—and it’s also just the right amount of time for heating the oven and pre-roasting the potatoes so the wedges, nestled into gaps in the baking dish, emerge fully tender with the tomatoes after baking. Served warm or at room temperature—or even lightly chilled—the tomatoes are a terrific side to roasted or grilled meats or seafood, but they’re substantial enough to be a light main.