Is It Worth It? Canned Cherry Tomatoes
Out of season, we typically prefer cherry or grape tomatoes, which are reliably sweeter and more flavorful than standard tomatoes. We were curious whether this also is true for canned cherry tomatoes, which have become increasingly common and generally are pricier than other canned options. To see whether they are worth their premium, we compared canned cherry and Roma tomatoes from three brands: Cento, Romanza and Mutti. Surprisingly, in every case, classic Roma tomatoes beat out the cherry tomatoes. The smaller tomatoes have a high ratio of seeds and skins to flesh, which was unpleasant in chunky sauces. We also found they gave soups a tannic bitterness. Roma tomatoes consistently produced smoother, more balanced results. Our verdict: Skip canned cherry tomatoes. They’re better fresh.
Freeze Your Ginger, Save Your Flavor
To keep fresh ginger on hand without worrying about it drying out or spoiling, we often freeze it. This not only keeps it fresh, it also makes the knobs easier to grate; freezing weakens the ginger’s fibers, allowing them to break apart more cleanly, preventing stringy bits from clogging the grater. But we wondered whether this sacrifices flavor. So we pitted frozen ginger (not peeled) vs. fresh (peeled) in a variety of recipes, including chilled soba noodles (where the ginger is used raw) and lentil stew (where it is cooked). In cooked uses, the frozen and fresh gingers were indistinguishable. Surprisingly, frozen ginger delivered slightly brighter, more vibrant flavor in raw applications. That’s because freezing stops the natural oxidation that degrades the flavor of fresh ginger.
Do Holier Pans Mean Crisper Crusts?
Fans of antique pie pans with perforations over the bottom claim the holes promote airflow for a crispier crust. We wondered whether this old-school design had merit. To test this, we compared perforated and mesh-bottomed pans against traditional metal and glass options using blind-baked crusts, quiche and double-crust apple pie. For blind-baked crusts and quiche, the perforated pan was excellent, producing evenly baked crusts with no soggy spots. Not surprisingly, the standard metal pie pan also performed perfectly in both cases. The mesh pan, however, overbrowned in spots, while the glass pan left the crusts underdone. But with fruit pies, the perforated pan struggled: Butter and juices leaked through, creating a mess and sogging the crust. The metal pans, in contrast, handled fruit pies beautifully, while glass pans again left the crust underdone. Our verdict: Perforated pans are great in some instances, but standard pie pans are reliable in all cases.
The Can-Do Korean Spoon
Long-handled and shallow-bowled, Korean spoons known as sutgaraks are ideal for scooping rice, soups, stews and other mainstays of Korean cuisine. A departure from the short-handled, deep-bowled renge found in Japan or China, the sutgarak’s design reflects Korean culinary customs; lifting a bowl to your mouth is a no-no, so the elongated handle allows for elegant eating while bowls remain on the table. We find them handy for scooping avocados and kiwis, and seeding squash and melons. They also are great at scraping out the last bits from narrow jars.
DIY Chili Oil
This versatile, easy-to-make chili oil requires just a few pantry staples and gives you control over the heat level. To make our DIY Chili Oil, in a small saucepan over medium-low, toast 6 árbol chilies (stemmed and seeded), stirring, until fragrant and beginning to char, 2 to 3 minutes. Cool 2 minutes off heat. Return the pan to medium-low, then add 1 cup neutral oil and 2 medium garlic cloves (thinly sliced). Heat to 275°F, stirring, 5 to 7 minutes. Cook, stirring, until the garlic is golden brown, another 4 to 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in 1 to 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes and 1 teaspoon smoked paprika. Let stand for 1 hour before using. Drizzle over rice, potatoes and soft-boiled eggs, or stir into vinaigrettes. Refrigerate up to two weeks.
