Is It Worth It? Silicone Bakeware
Silicone bakeware is lightweight, nonstick and easy to clean. But how do the baked goods these pans produce compare to those made in traditional metal baking pans? Our testing revealed noticeable disparities in browning and texture. Metal conducts heat differently than silicone. And while the flexibility of silicone makes it easy to release baked goods, the floppy structure often necessitates placing a baking tray underneath. This exposes the bottoms of the silicone pans to uneven heat distribution, making them more prone to burning. We also found wide variations between silicone pans; the cheaper ones performed noticeably worse, as the thinner material offered less protection from the heat. Cakes baked in silicone had a higher, flatter rise but also had softer, stickier surfaces compared to the crisp edges we got in metal pans. Loaves in silicone pans had denser interiors and chewier exteriors, while silicone-baked muffins had uneven browning and gummy textures. Ultimately, the cleanup convenience wasn’t enough to win us over; we found metal pans to be the better bet.
No Brown Sugar? No Problem!
Conventional brown sugar is just white sugar with molasses, so we wondered whether we could make our own for those days when we run out or discover the stuff we bought has turned rock hard. We made it by stirring 1 tablespoon molasses into 1 cup white sugar to approximate light brown sugar, and 2 tablespoons molasses for dark brown sugar. We then baked cakes, one with homemade brown sugar and one with purchased. Both turned out great, with a few subtle differences. The homemade brown sugar cake was notably richer, with a darker, crunchier exterior and a more tender crumb. The glaze, too, benefited from the homemade brown sugar, offering deeper complexity than the glaze made with the store-bought stuff. However, we found that if not mixed thoroughly, a homemade brown sugar blend can leave streaks in the final bake, so stir well.
Gravy Game-Changer
For an especially flavorful, velvety gravy, a light brown roux (a mixture of equal parts fat and flour cooked until golden brown) is the best bet for thickening—it imparts a smooth, nutty richness impossible with cornstarch. But the careful stirring needed to prevent scorching can feel fussy during holiday meal prep. Luckily, it’s easily prepped ahead, then it can be refrigerated for up to a month and used as needed. To make it, in a saucepan, heat ½ cup neutral oil (or melt 8 tablespoons salted butter) over medium heat. Add ½ cup all-purpose flour; whisk to combine and cook, stirring, over medium until deep golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes (6 to 8 for butter). To make gravy using the premade roux, we recommend adding 2 tablespoons of roux per 1 cup of stock or pan juices, keeping it at a simmer while whisking, for 3 to 5 minutes. Roux can also be frozen, then added directly to hot liquid to make gravy. We suggest freezing in 2-tablespoon portions in a standard ice cube tray.
The Secret to Soft, Pillowy Bread Rolls
Baking or buying dinner rolls in advance can be a godsend for holiday meal prep. But we aren’t willing to sacrifice that freshly baked texture and aroma. So we experimented with the best way to reheat pre-baked rolls. Striking the right balance of heat and moisture is key—too much heat scorches, while excess moisture turns rolls soggy. We tested several methods, including steaming, microwaving and a brief stint back in the oven. Steaming left the rolls too wet. Rolls wrapped in a damp paper towel and microwaved for 30 seconds were OK but staled quickly as they cooled. The best way was to brush the rolls with melted butter or olive oil and wrap them in foil, then place in a 350°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes.
A Better Way with Bay
The floral, herbal notes of bay leaf can be lost in soups and braises. So when we want to really taste it, we make Bay-Chili Salt, a punchy all-purpose seasoning. In a spice grinder, combine 14 medium dried bay leaves, 1 tablespoon black peppercorns and 1 or 2 dried árbol chilies. Process until finely ground, about 30 seconds. Add 3 tablespoons kosher salt and 1 tablespoon white sugar; pulse to a fine powder. Use it to make Garlic and Bay Salt Rice. In a large saucepan, combine 1½ cups long-grain white rice (rinsed and drained), 4 medium garlic cloves (minced) and 1¾ teaspoons Bay-Chili Salt. Stir in 2 cups water and bring to a simmer over medium-high, then cover, reduce to low and cook until the rice has absorbed the water, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork, then taste and season with additional Bay-Chili Salt. Or for Bay-Seasoned Chicken Skewers, in a medium bowl, toss 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs (trimmed and cut into 1-inch chunks) with 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil and 3½ teaspoons Bay-Chili Salt. Thread onto four metal skewers; set on a wire rack set in a broiler-safe rimmed baking sheet. Heat the broiler with a rack 4 inches from the element. Broil until well browned and charred in spots, 8 to 10 minutes, flipping halfway through. Serve with lemon wedges.
