Stop Chopping Your Tomatoes!
In Crete, we learned that the best tomato sauces are made by grating, not chopping, the star ingredient. Grating tomatoes is a fast, easy way to separate the flesh from the skin without the fuss of blanching. It also creates uniform shreds without losing any of the delicious juices. Best of all, it actually enhances flavor. That’s because grating tomatoes ruptures more plant cell walls than chopping, releasing more sugars and volatile hydrocarbons, the sources of the tomato’s sweetness and aroma. Begin by halving your ripe tomatoes. Starting with the cut side against the large holes on a box grater, grate each half into a medium bowl to capture the pulp and the juices. Stop when you reach the skin and discard it.
Don’t Beat Yourself Up About Beat-Up Baking Sheets
Over time, shiny new baking sheets inevitably discolor. This dark patina is caused by the accumulation of fats on the surface, which polymerize when heated, bonding to the metal. Social media is awash in tricks for cleaning your baking sheets. Is it worth the trouble? We tested a variety of pans, both new and well seasoned, to bake cookies. In the end, all the cookies came out equally delicious, with indistinguishable results between the different trays, regardless of color, material or weight. So don’t waste time worrying about splotchy baking sheets.
Egg Separation Anxiety? Chill Out
Whatever your preferred method of separating egg yolks and whites, one trick will make it easier: Keep them cold. When eggs warm up, their yolks become more fluid and less firm, and the outer membrane becomes more delicate, making it easier to rupture. So when you need to separate eggs, be sure to keep them refrigerated until ready. Of course, many baking recipes call for room-temperature ingredients. In those cases, separate your eggs straight from the refrigerator, then allow the yolks and whites to sit at room temperature for about 20 minutes. But don’t let them linger much beyond that; the yolks can start to dry out and form a skin on the surface, which can affect the final consistency of the recipe. However, if you do need to store egg yolks for longer, pressing a sheet of plastic wrap directly against their surfaces will help prevent them from drying out and forming a skin.
The Best DIY BBQ Sauce
Tired of overly sweet barbecue sauces, we created one that replaces the usual ketchup base with tangy-savory tomato paste. And to double down on the savory flavors, we added soy sauce and miso. A splash of rice vinegar—mellower than plain white vinegar—helps balance the richness of meats. The result is a smoky, rich sauce with just a hint of sweetness. It can be grilled, broiled, brushed, glazed and mixed with just about any protein, including as a sauce for pulled pork or chicken. To make, in a small bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk together ¼ cup soy sauce, ¼ cup maple syrup, ¼ cup tomato paste, 2 tablespoons white miso, 1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar, and ½ teaspoon each kosher salt and ground black pepper. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to two weeks.
Is It Worth It? Homemade Crème Fraîche
Crème fraîche’s rich, velvety texture, tangy flavor and high fat content (compared to sour cream, its closest dairy relative) make it ideal for stirring into soups and sauces. But it isn’t cheap, often costing more than twice as much as sour cream. It is easily made at home, requiring nothing more than heavy cream, a starter culture (such as a dollop of sour cream, yogurt or kefir) and time to thicken. But we wondered whether it’s worth the trouble, so we tried making our own. While crème fraîche made with a sour cream starter was watery and disappointing, we got terrific results from kefir and yogurt—just as good as high-end store brands, and far less expensive. To make your own, in a glass jar stir 1 cup heavy cream with 1 tablespoon plain kefir or whole-milk yogurt. Cover with cheesecloth or a coffee filter, secure with a rubber band, then let sit at room temperature (70°F to 75°F) for about 48 hours. Uncover, stir to combine, then cover and refrigerate for up to one week. For best results, start with organic cream; avoid cream that’s been pasteurized at ultra-high temperatures (UHT). We love using it to make ice cream. Get the recipe for our Crème Fraîche and Honey Ice Cream.
