Gochujang is a fermented chili paste used widely in Korean cooking. Made the traditional way, it ferments in clay pots for months or years to create a concentrated paste with tremendous depth and complex chili heat. Today, many brands are available in the U.S., though quality varies widely.

When shopping, start by reading the ingredient list. Traditional gochujang should contain little more than gochugaru (red chili flakes), glutinous rice, fermented soybeans and salt. The product’s label should also specify its heat level.

To determine our favorites, we tasted 13 brands, first straight up (but thinned with a bit of water), then cooked as a glaze for tofu. Our favorite in both tests was Haio Go-Chu-Jang Red Pepper Paste, which had balanced, smoky flavor, a smooth texture and plenty of heat without overwhelming. But it is not always easy to find in sizes smaller than 6.6-pound tubs.

Luckily, two other brands (both available in roughly 1-pound packages, the more standard size) also scored well in both tests. Family-owned Lucky Foods Seoul Gochujang was sweet and malty with balanced heat and funk. Also good was Haechandle Gochujang Hot Pepper Paste, which had an almost maple sweetness, clean chili flavor and gentle heat.

Though less smooth than the other three, Roland Gochujang Fermented Chili Pepper Paste also rated well for its sweetness and subtle heat.

The worst by far was Trader Joe’s Gochujang, which was grainy, thin, excessively sweet and lacked heat. Almost as bad was Koko Gochujang, which tasted like smoked molasses and ketchup.